Jump to content

Welcome to our site

Take a moment to join us, we are waiting for you.

Kr4nG

K24 swap into R53

Recommended Posts

I have wanted to do this for such a long time. Ever since I sold my fully built integra. Not going to go into to much detail about it but lets just say it was flawless.

 

What I have now is a 2006 mini cooper S

Interior: black interior and black leather seats, gps, harmon kardon audio, some gauges.

Exterior: chili red with JCW front grill and front bumper: real JCW gen 1 front brakes, 16x8 rota grid v wheels

Performance: JCW injectors, Megan header, Milltek exhaust, 17% pulley, maybe jcw tune

 

New Engine:

2007 acura tsx motor

2.4 liter

rsx type s water pump

rsx type s oil cooler

skunk 2 style intake manifold

70mm throttle body

rsx type s VTC gear > future

rsx type s oil pump > future

rsx type s oil pan > future

engine management K-pro

Transmission: civic type r ep3 6 speed with LSD

80-cooper_park_0da362f2d473fb478bfb78f3515cda6414f7db63.jpg

 

 

80-img_1735_632d0c65ead1064c912c9dbc18cb8e33d4ebbbb5.jpeg

 

 

 

 

As you may know that no one makes mounts for this swap so I bought 2 sets of aftermarket mounts. 1st is for 06-11 civic si and 2nd is for 94-01 integra kswap. I used the trans mount from the integra kit and the motor mount from the civic kit. I do not have a a/c tig welder. Ive been using my 100$ welder this whole time and I like it. Im very used it it. But I wish I had a tig.

80-06_11_civic_si_mounts_74770f5f2170a56204208bcf9d1896a4c8fe64be.jpg

 

80-integra_k_swap_mounts_583fe8adbbb645c0600d9f1278eeb0d6b3ec4891.jpg

 

 

 

The motor does not fit. A few things need to happen. Both rails need to be notched out. As well as the subframe but only on the drivers side.

80-img_1808_2f75494a00cb1efd7af57842dccff0d80578861f.jpeg

 

80-img_1811_1af773238051bae6c12eb562e0c132a52918049c.jpeg

 

80-img_1812_b96698f15b7e42ffedfb6bbb00f1acd9eaef3ff3.jpeg

 

80-img_1795_27ac723b4bfdce1c28e4893a46b87a9a6f5a525c.jpeg

 

 

Driver axle is from integra. The integra left and right axle as exactly the same, even if you filip the inner cups. The integras outer hub fits real good onto the coopers bearing but if you use the rsx base axle the outer hubs wont fit. The ring that is on it hits the bearing seal. You can use the integra outers and swap the rsx axle becasue its longer. I will use the rsx base axle on the passenger side with the integra outer cup but leave the stock integra axle alone for the driver side.

80-img_1790_40f8516a93f49a8fc748ff074680c8d6c2976f17.jpeg

 

 

Motor is in but not fully attached

 

80-img_1821_072f8ec7754457ec66130d95cb2e27241cacf6bf.jpeg

 

 

80-img_1822_370e9dbd050736db1e55b26238a5db105b8d110d.jpeg

 

 

Trans mount I made

 

80-img_1825_a1301eb3dbe4a5b260fa3eae9587b37eae434470.jpeg

 

Mounts

 

80-img_1826_b4bd4cce73330685638449aff9580e4129e4ff60.jpeg

 

Not much clearance left

 

80-img_1833_a403cfcca01523f30a98632610a2d699ea036e9f.jpeg

 

 

80-img_1834_e881a94093eb2f5747fe50def8a6f4495d93e09b.jpeg

 

Rail is welded back up. Just the mount

 

80-img_1838_6e8fc8e732779cb73a6c754d59195fd9e43f33c8.jpeg

 

80-img_1839_8a20cf76ad2a7d050031c783165332ceeab4f545.jpeg

 

Mount is welded to 1/4 inch steel plate.

 

80-img_1840_97f7b57705ca322bf87cec328e3a2b651e7d3de8.jpeg

 

Last piece 3/16 steel

 

80-img_1842_c4cf6e2c201b993efd2e616bbe29f17192125fc7.jpeg

 

 

80-img_1843_ed58fc293e4ad0d35a764c252872f3c5a28f3606.jpeg

 

80-img_1844_51a70ceed8a9032c66da7ce79843f6cb68aca8a0.jpeg

 

A lot of extra metal left over. I bought 2 sheets of 3/16 plate 8x12 and 2 sheets of 1/4 8x12

I used 1 sheet of 3/16 plate and half of the other. And a little of the 1/4 inch steel plate. I have the other 1/4 left not used.

80-img_1845_d76d712590385065fb47d4873a236ab5d33153a1.jpeg

 

 

So as it sits now with both rails in primer ready for seam sealer and paint. I have to make the 3rd mount next

80-img_1851_72fbbdaea0c04893e0cd766e85c069b787b4c218.jpeg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

This is the oil pan straight on. You can see the subframe is still lower.

 

80-img_1863_a7f5069f5625899eea43e5b015e011fc70691bdc.jpeg

 

 

Today I spent the day modifying the honda throttle cable and the throttle pedal. I wanted to use the s2000 pedal but I figured out a way to use the stock mini one. Not much modification to the cable itself. Just had to drill one hole into it. The pedal box had to be shaved inside a couple places.

 

80-img_1872_b03cac7301179f8bfdc9f9752813949710410489.jpeg

80-img_1873_c793c5391648a8b9d0d71138706ae46da5830df7.jpeg

80-img_1874_26d6e722a2f78ae644e64c0d3970afdfe6bf507d.jpeg

80-img_1875_9eedd8bb9696239f77f357c2b151073075220dd5.jpeg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I have completed the shifter box and the cables. I also did the clutch line and bled the system. I have completed the exhaust manifold and cat converter with flex pipe. The header needs a bit more touch up and another o2 bung welded. Enjoy.

 

Honda hard line into mini hard line.

80-img_1909_cae93d655df3dc4ba7ce692e5b020e59979fa7d2.jpeg

Little trimming needed, not much.

80-img_1912_8aa4d57010e37fccc08a5f21d79057eaa5c6eac0.jpeg

 

80-img_1914_e8553a27f6cb07f67d2fae9413610dd0c8ec4e4a.jpeg

 

Fits like oem. Even used the oem holes and bolts to mount it into the same spot.

80-img_1915_c1f429441e3833bcd9b8457e97b466a195085c02.jpeg

 

80-img_1924_bc2dfdf3adf1e3661f58d3a29d3b1771db795657.jpeg

K-tuned no cut shifter box. All aluminum and it has a cover for the bottom which makes it fully enclosed. The stock heat shield fits right under it like oem mini.

80-img_1931_991d6eadd76a5b586569d7ad245eb0edf9e3304c.jpeg

3 inch flex into 2.5 inch v band with 3 inch high flow cat. and another v band clamp

80-img_1933_7721f0a83e942716bdf61a4b6bf1644db3401756.jpeg

The header needed to be bent up at the runners then down at the end. I have to grind and paint the rest of it.

 

80-untitled_c40c243a46de5ac3c75ec391bcf74738f48705c0.jpg

 

Next will be the radiator and condensor. Once that is in place I can finish the 3rd mount.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Wow! This is quite impressive! You're making me second guess wanting to trade my R53 for another EP3 Honda lol.

 

Biggest question I have is how stiff will the frame rail and crossmember be now from a structural standpoint? That's the biggest thing that scares me away from doing something like this is whether or not the structural integrity will be sacrificed at all.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Here is some more progress. Next week will be the first attempt to start it up.

 

 

80-img_1935_1a464006ae7fd53e7475a5021e2b56ac3c68c140.jpeg

 

80-img_1936_1e36d352337d27756653ae835b3f38e9bcd27e56.jpeg

 

Clearance is perfect.

 

80-img_1937_5ed5baa8572424a84c7f61dcb313df4ec32e8bd3.jpeg

 

I need the first 02 sensor and the 90 bung might get plugged.

 

80-img_1938_693203740dee4f33516722fe21fc58b5490d1537.jpeg

 

Front Radiator clearance against the block. I wont be able to use the front mount as my 3rd motor mount. I will have to revert the 3rd mount idea to the rear.

 

80-img_1940_1736a369f9ec1fae6834ed56582f39ae1ee1e9f9.jpeg

 

80-img_1941_794b5d96d6a7746b558873bb7d8877d8ada2c879.jpeg

 

Intercooler is setup for the future.

 

80-img_1942_d7cb63fb16e44fd2866acd8a5fd8034380724487.jpeg

 

80-img_1943_7fbd86e39c39f5940d05b0871e7fad1240193698.jpeg

 

80-img_1944_a11dc1efc9a9de903086d8fb04f870616f51a7d0.jpeg

 

80-img_1945_d722e4baa8345de55db59237e07b693c1d78d2f6.jpeg

 

Top radiator support bracket will need to be made as well.

 

80-img_1946_751e3f879fbccf60aae0f26c81bc9905e3ea313e.jpeg

 

 

Almost done...Enjoy.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Wow! This is quite impressive! You're making me second guess wanting to trade my R53 for another EP3 Honda lol. Biggest question I have is how stiff will the frame rail and crossmember be now from a structural standpoint? That's the biggest thing that scares me away from doing something like this is whether or not the structural integrity will be sacrificed at all.

 

Honestly I think I made the rails even stronger from stock. I have more metal and thicker metal in its place. The cross member same thing. It was just a little shave and box it out. It wont effect any structural integrity.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Not much of an update. But good news is that the motor starts with the kpro. I have to find a good spot to go through the firewall so the new ECU can be inside the cabin. I have located all necessary wires except the fan control wire. I want to use the mini relay to start the new fan. If i cant find the wire then I will have to manually make my own relay circuit. Any suggestions where the fan control wire is on the Mini harness? Oh yea, the originally mini ecu does not need to connected at all. The key works and so does the power steering with the ignition on.

 

Working on the upper rad support bar.

img_1956_b52100f754326a11ead6c16b5f0335659466be96.jpeg

 

Almost done..

img_1957_693b00a1166b1e2f8f4fdde1119bb9ff6b7cb326.jpeg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I have a quick update for you all. The car runs!! I have finally finished the 3rd motor mount and the car is road ready. I need to figure out what to do with gauge cluster cause I can't see my RPM. In the mean time I will have my phone or ipad setup. The kpro has built in bluetooth so I can see all the parameters in live time. I will post more pictures at its current state next week.

 

img_1968_5360883ab9d92e9e834d9382887ad95bba6e49ba.jpeg

 

img_1969_e61d8cce36656e0ed8a31c6393560c6790d5e22f.jpeg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Fan control is complete. Very small task but a huge deal for me to find the correct wire. Whats happening is when its time for the ecu to turn on the fan it checks the Engine Coolant Temp Sensor that is on the head. In the software I can turn the fan on at whatever temp I want. From the conversion harness I have 1 FANC wire. That wire is actually a ground signal produced by the ecu. In the original mini harness I have found the FANC wire and tested it by simply touching it to a chassis ground. After various of tests I connected the Honda FANC wire to the MINI ecu plug.

 

This is the wire I found that kicks on 1 relay in the engine bay. Ground that and you have Fan on. Im using original connector in the engine bay spliced to my new fan.

 

img_2118_017043939debf0b55467cb15284125ef313d9def.jpeg

 

screenshot of K-Manager. So much can be done with Hondata. Its pretty much a stand alone ecu.

 

screen_shot_2018_09_12_at_11_24_35_am_1219ac651af6f3cf1fad9ca5f76f421be95c1f6e.png

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I believe this will be the final update for you guys. I still need to get it tuned its running a stock basemap for now. Motor is stock anyway besides intake manifold, throttle body and exhaust. So the car runs good great. Their are no engine lights and it runs as it should.

 

As for the cluster goes, for now I use my phone. But I do want the CD7 dash from AEM but its just not priority right now.

 

aem_cd7_a54286c6941eee98b6105ad4a5c2c405efe961b6.jpg

 

I put the exhaust shield on with some minor trimming and bracket need to be made.

img_2156_d9d9d78a89adb1b3d98b32c947ab245e3365ab14.jpeg

 

I have also put back the bottom splash shield. No trimming fits like stock.

 

img_2155_4419b69bfbcf8ad0d2ff71d9e7e71befba434414.jpeg

 

 

img_2157_ced592011d1c5241d4b876d2c15dc20ed9e31054.jpeg

 

img_2158_c978627d278b5ec1b923ef411eb809809e92fda5.jpeg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I have completed my return fuel system. It wasn't too hard. The mini fuel pump-hat has an existing nipple that is capped off. I have cut the tip of it and used the evap quick disconnect fitting that is then connected into a -4an return hose all the way up to the engine bay. Under the pump-hat I also added another hose that drains to the bottom of the tank. This way no splashing will happen inside. (not pictured.)

 

 

img_1622_87d563a12ae2103a88cb376d24117d8467cd50f3.jpeg

 

img_2198_93be9a2f8e7b8f1f417208e31321230c417d3a75.jpeg

 

Factory Clips were still used. The 2 evap lines were cut out and thrown away.

 

img_2192_9529c95024e9aa1ed0e10cc2dc6bdd4f9f4c160a.jpeg

 

img_2188_4b4e5cfc05ae2a1df569fd75cca5f549e0b72ee0.jpeg

 

img_2197_b053b4d72f7e77fbf9fde0dab1072f3acd449629.jpeg

 

img_2189_feafed35f80d604974262afd2b28de2af0d8c1f3.jpeg

 

img_2187_c715bad62c7e048e8e2a9c24fce2ef1fc87eeadd.jpeg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

×