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JannerSy

Cheque book Racing R53 build

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Thought id start a thread.

 

I used to be very into trackdays and spent an inordinate amount of money tuning VAGs and Fords to be used as a combined family/trackday car. These typically involved power way above what the car could actually handle and the usual always chasing traction. I did alot of trackdays and sprint events and was even fortunate at one point of my career to have worked in Moenchengladbach in Germany, a spritely 90 miles from the nurburgring so have done alot of time around there.

 

Had just had a few years away from the trackday and tuning scene due to working away 5 days per week where instead i spent inordinate amounts of money on cycling, however i recently had a very near death accident on a pushbike which has led to the wife and family asking me to get back into cars and bin bikes.

 

Immediately i gravitated towards VAGs again thinking of 400+hp targets etc until i drove past a MCS up for £2k and thought a Mini would be a cool change. The wife come home and wasnt best pleased which is strange as she said to llget back into cars......haha

 

Initially had plans of £1k chassis, £1k engine and £500 brakes for what would be a road going everyday use second car/trackday car. It didnt last!

 

New plan: Road legal trackday that is legal for use in MSA racing series. I also want to do as much of the work myself as possible....

 

This is the car as she started:

 

02 MCS, Chilli Pack, 70k mileage. Lots of rattles. Its also got an unknown catbCk exhaust fitted which fortunately has a decent exhaust note and doesnt drone.

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I notiiced the car had a knock when turning left under load. Traced it to a torn OEM top mount so thought id start on the chassis work first with BC Racing RM series coilovers & adjustable top mounts with some Front & Rear Eibach ARBs and the issues started immediately

 

The front coilovers went on fine. Put the front wheel on and the strut was in full contact with the rim and tyre. Not impressed but fixable with new wheels or spacers.

 

Went to the rear and then had bigger issues. Bearing in mind the rear coilover bolts into holes at the top and bolts into the bottom theres not any scope to fit them wrong yey for some reason yet the strut was touching the rear hub assembly.

 

Have spoken with BC who have heard of this issue before and it requires a spacer bush which they are sending some out. Still waiting on this fix!

 

Also found that the Eibach ARB when fitted touched the rear wishbone mount on both sides. Given it was touching unloaded without any tension and the bar is hollow, I decided to refit the stock bar because if it tore though the bar at any point it would loose all strength and potentially tear. Eibach have had minimal advice on the matter other than they havent heard of it before. Not going to bother putting it back on.

 

Hopefully get some direction or parts from BC this next week416008a30f5ac056c00a89454630f9cd.jpg204c61bdf9552f6a40050ffafc7bb327.jpg9af5d993161e61f83d9330bc2e9f9c32.jpge3427db0aee0cd1f9c8fdda931678aa2.jpge947202ec6077f257528a879a64abf28.jpg

This was also before i started to consider doing a racecar project so i initially looked into a Mini GP2 rear Seat Delete. It was in 3 days before i had a change of plan. Needed some trimming but a nice fit.

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Had a chat with a friend building a car for the Armed Forces Racing Championship on thursday lunch. Woke up early on saturday and took abit of a step into the unknown haha.

 

 

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Front seats and carpets will be out this weekend. Will hopefully pick up some seats as well and fingers crossed get them fitted as well.

 

Seat wise im thinking of Cobra Monaco Pro which are FIA approved for 5 years and only £186ea pending some comfort/support tests with one at GSM in Nottingham this weekend. I can upgrade at a later date to something better but key for me at the moment is race legal and well priced so i can get onto track sooner.

 

Cage wise im torn with what to do.

 

A weld in custom cages 6 point cage was quoted at around £2k fitted incl VAT. A thought im considering right now is if i should go down the route of a bolt in cage then use the saved money for the brakes which are next on the list. I dont really want the cage just for safety. Id also like it to add value wirh handling and stiffness so if the bolt ins are able to be welded to the car body with plates just like the weld in cages this may be a viable option moving forward.

 

Example being, coming from competitive cycling i used to witness guys spending £5k on a bike due to saving 1kg and being a little stiffer yet their issue limitation wasnt the bike it was their legs and the fact they had a pretty large p!$$ tank. Same will apply to my driving skills.

 

 

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Welcome! Great intro and glad you started a thread. Where are you based? Get on you Janner!

 

Hopefully, people will chime in to help and if you're local to anyone, we may even help.

 

I can't see how that roll bar is touching :-(

 

Some people don't run an uprated front. Either none or a mini ONE softer one.

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Janner = Devon - probs plymouth ?

 

Welcome along

 

Those shocks look R56 specific on the rear so looks like you may want some r56 alloy arms at some point - 2kg lighter per side and simple conversion for about £150 ish

 

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Welcome! Great intro and glad you started a thread. Where are you based? Get on you Janner!

 

Hopefully, people will chime in to help and if you're local to anyone, we may even help.

 

I can't see how that roll bar is touching :-(

 

Some people don't run an uprated front. Either none or a mini ONE softer one.

Originally Plymouth but moved away 17 years ago. Live halfway between Nottingham and Derby now.

 

The picture doesn't really illustrate it but the ARB when bolted down with tbe brackets was pressed hard against the right angle edge of the control arm rear mount which dented the bar. My fear was that dent with bar flex would eventually wear through and the bar would effectivelt tear apart. Im not going to put it back on in all honesty. If i can get a good will offer back from Eibach that'll be a result but if not i won't be shocked.

 

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Janner = Devon - probs plymouth ?

 

Welcome along

 

Those shocks look R56 specific on the rear so looks like you may want some r56 alloy arms at some point - 2kg lighter per side and simple conversion for about £150 ish

 

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Cage, seats are next in my list followed by tge rear arms. Need to work out whetger its cheap enough to do with bew parts or to source from scrap yards. Most of the guides on here have broken links/images files so dont help too much.

 

Next decision for me is the roll cage. I want the cage to benefit the handling as well as act as a safety device but i also dont want to haemorrhage money.

 

A weld in cage will be secured to the vehicle shell/body with flange plates on the top bottom, sides, front and rear of the car so that ticks that box however weld in cage with fitmsnt is going to cost me approx £2k.

 

A bolt on cage is welded on the base to mounting points but bolt on everywhere else so does not link into the shell or increase stiffness and only provides impact/roll over protection. However if you are allowed to weld flange plates between a bolt in cage and the vehicle body/shell at the top, sides front and rear etc it would provide that stiffness yet wil be much cheaper to onstall as its a bolt in setup.

 

The question that im trying to find an answer to is will welding flange plates betqeen the cage and shell of an approved bolt in cage effect the MSA approval on the roll cage design.

 

This is the sort of thing I'm thinkingbof when im talking flange plates (pic from DodgerR53s thread)d96989268db16b5ec8c48b57da4b9cc2.jpg

 

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Yes it will

 

ANY extra parts - even a simple bracket - will invalidate the certification

To get your own cage design certified is £1000 and takes the MSA a long time.

Mine is FIA tested but not certified as totally bespoke

 

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Once the design is approved thats final so anything added to any cage will invalidate its cert.

Your anchoring points and cage spec would be governed by the blue book which includes welds , tube cuts , distances from set points etc. It also changes the specs at times too

 

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Ive contacted custom cages and safety devices to find out what can be done.

 

Visited GSM in Nottingham today to look at harnesses amd seats. I had initially looked at Cobra Monaco Pros but after sitting in them there isnt much lateral support at all. I'm now thinking of some Sparco Sprints which seemed to fit much nicer.

 

Gonna source some R56 rear arms this weekend as well i think. Also going to sort a new steering rack and pump out as im cwrtain its playing up.

 

Any pointers on good places to source a power steering pump with warranty?

 

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Some more stripping of the car today. Getting the carpets out was emotional 🤣dc853056967e362378589e8516389de0.jpg3ea2df9136f90b5d4c4a015702e8f76c.jpgf6a4be8e10446f98fe1ecab49425cff9.jpg2f53aac2224788ca81fe0ed08004de7e.jpg4d4d3696b873007f3a2aed58b6c56e33.jpg9f77b05ccc255d17cf0dce354a3efb6a.jpg7fa7e6c0e719c0b752801083de5f1481.jpg

 

This part was an absolute nightmare to get out as i couldnt fit a socket or spanner into the space to remove it

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Anyone know what this part is?

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Ive considered removing all rigid the sound proofing but it looks like its a nightmare job and if ive read correctly its only about 2kg max which im not sure is worth the effort.

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To remove the soundpdoofing, so dry ice and a hMmer and done in 30 mins

 

Easy really and the dry ice cost $50 so that is the way to go, sont use heat

Only negative was i got a little excited with ths hammer and dented some of the floor :o

 

Oh, i did use heat for the ones on the inside of wheel arches

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I found heat gun and scraper an effective way of removing sound deadening, then a wire knot wheel on a grinder. Just brace yourself for bits of steel hanging out your skin and lots of swearing 😂

 

 

Each to there own but no need for any wire wheel or lost fingers with the dry ice, it comes off clean and then just needs a wipe with some thinners.

 

Only difficult for vertical surfaces.

 

As mentioned before just be careful with the hammer and the sheer metal.

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Hi Sy,

I fabricated my own kit but Harrop make a kit which is on blackys car we have the same charger but different snout and throttle body inlet .Power is similar but I run pump gas he has the luxury of e85 in AUSTRALIA.I am waiting for someone to have a Harrop TVS kit put on and dyno it at 1320 mini so I can compare.

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Hi Sy,

I fabricated my own kit but Harrop make a kit which is on blackys car we have the same charger but different snout and throttle body inlet .Power is similar but I run pump gas he has the luxury of e85 in AUSTRALIA.I am waiting for someone to have a Harrop TVS kit put on and dyno it at 1320 mini so I can compare.

Cheers buddy, id like to have the car at around 240-250hp/ton which with the car likely to be around 1050kg when finished is approx 250-260hp at the flywheel or 215-220whp.

 

Whats the most economical and reliable way of getting that do you think? I dont want to end up like i was with my previous cars spending crazy money chasing power when i could be spending it on more frequent track days.

 

 

 

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Some get close to that with a17% pulley ,1320 cam ,550 injectors and a bytronic map from 1320 and an aftermarket top mount.Next step would be a ported head .
Worth doing a 19% pulley or a 17% pulley with 2% larger crank pulley or iz that likely to start hitting reliability?

 

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Each to there own but no need for any wire wheel or lost fingers with the dry ice, it comes off clean and then just needs a wipe with some thinners.

 

Only difficult for vertical surfaces.

 

As mentioned before just be careful with the hammer and the sheer metal.

 

Sorry I wasn’t very clear, I used a wire wheel for all the seam sealer.

 

 

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The thing is, if it's a track car, you don't want to wind up the percentages of supercharger boost. You'll just be adding heat and then the ECU will pull timing due to too high intake temperatures.

 

You can do an airbox mod for better breathing, sticking a K&N inside the box and adding a port at the back.

 

15% is what I'd recommend for track with a cat-cam and 550 injectors and a good tune. That's likely to see you at 200/210whp.

 

Brakes, suspension, tyres, wheels etc are all more important really at first I think.

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