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I was drawing up a bracket so that I could continue to use the cooper water pump with my blower but what have you guys done with electric water pumps like the davies 80 or 115?

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Yeah, Nigels we set to come on below something like 2000 revs and if temp was over ~80C, Or if temperature started to get silly and before the fuel cuts come in. Theory being that it's a strong pump and overkill as permanent sumplement to the R50 pump, Nige didn't want it running hot all the time and adding to water stress.

 

I've not heard of anyone using the Davies Craig pumps reliably, most use the Stewart water pump which Jan started off. Nige, Me, Lee's new TVS. 1320 have used one, don't know if they still do. It's also conveniently packaged as a straight through device instead of 90degree turn like the Davies and others.

 

If my setup wasn't so tight for space, I'd probably run a Pierburg pump off a BMW and control its rotation speed from the ECU.

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Cheers Craig, is the the aluminium water pump being fitted to the 3 series, an aluminium lump? Also I would presume that it is CAN controlled? I have not seen anything on my ECU which would allow for me to control that but I will look at the alternatives

 

I spent a while re-designing a water pump to replace those EMP units too as the failure rate was too high but if everyone has been having good luck with them I will research them too.

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Is anyone running an EWP without the heater core?

I've set mine up with the stock thermostat housing (no thermostat) and the heater output going to the bottom of my aluminum overflow can and an auto bleeder to the top of the tank.

My problem is when we ran the car it started to overflow...assuming that the pump is causing too much pressure via the heater port to the tank.

How do other have this set up?

Thinking of putting in a check valve to the heater output(only allowing coolant to go to the engine and not the tank)...any extra coolant can return to the tank via the autobleeder.

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Why not put the heater output from the thermostat housing to the feed side of the pump ?

If you look at the standard set up with the supercharger driven pump the outlet from the thermostat housing goes through the heater circuit and then back to the suction feed side of the pump.

This means there is always some flow for the pump even when the stat is shut before it gets to full temperature

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I run a EWP No heater no thermostat. Without a thermostat you shouldnt really be getting a lot of pressure to the header tank, as this is the bypass for thermostat closed off from the thermostat housing.

 

If you had a thermostat you would see a lot of flow to header tank when closed but without a thermostat my flow to header tank is a great deal less.

 

The two hoses to the header tank are bypass from thermostat housing, that is the hose going into top of tank and return to pump low hose.

 

As I understand it this is all about keeping flow to pump when thermostat is closed, keep what moving so doesn't bowl in places.

 

How have you closed your heater lines off?

 

I just run caps at the T junctions.

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No thermostat in the system.

All the heater system is removed, so that just leaves pump feeding the block, T-housing heater output to the tank, T-housing output to the top of crossflow rad, rad output to the EWP. Also have a Blacky autobleeder running to the top of the tank.

 

We ran it again today and it may be as simple as too much coolant in the header tank to start with...once the Vipec is tuned, I'll be able to run it for a longer period to see if it overflows again.

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so I decided to get one of those BMW piersburg water pumps. Got to say I'm impressed. Very well built. Hooked it up and its going to work well.

 

1) 12v

2) PWM

3) n/a

4) GND

 

PWM, 20% up to 95% PWM is a linear speed, anything over 95~100% PWM has a default failure speed of 80% speed

 

Lots of control and a lot smaller than I thought it would be too. Just tried a £40 used version to test and trial before getting a new unit but it runs very smooth. Having seen and played with some of the aftermarket pumps out there I am going to say this is heads and shoulders better

 

I would post a picture but the forum does not allow google photo extension?

so generic image...

s-l1600.jpg

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^ good to hear. I'm determined to use an ewp - either with its own controller or if I can fund a standalone ECU then with that. Everyone seems to have horror stories about why not to use them, but for fuck sake it's an electric motor moving some water - surely some must work properly!

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electric water pumps are issues everywhere and are known to fail due to loads, temperatures and just because they are abused. I would like to think this unit is quite robust but time will tell. At £40 I am happy to have a play and see how it goes. I will be adding a couple of extra sensors to keep and eye on the cooling system.

 

I will control it via the Vipec but you could go 100% PWM on pin 2 or 100%PWM is known as dc so just stick 12v on and the pump will run at 80% speed all the time but I want a little more than that

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You can always setup a protection strategy to limit RPM by cutting ignition if coolant goes too high. Or a big noddy light to warn of high coolant temp like Nige has, because we used the protection strategies for other things.

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