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scraggles

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scraggles last won the day on August 30 2018

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About scraggles

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  1. scraggles

    New battery

    There's a fusable link on the +ve terminal connected to the srs/airbag system which can be removed. Yes, you can chop off the old connectors and crimp suitable ring terminals onto both the wires, just be sure to use an appropriate high pressure crimper. The junction box has a fuse in it which you have a choice removing or re-purposing, I replaced it with a smaller box that uses the same fuse. The fuse is on the wire that runs through the cabin to effectively disconnect the battery if the wire should be damaged and shorted to chassis. I figured that was worth keeping.
  2. scraggles

    Tow cars

    Theres a bunch of weights you'll need to be aware of. The towing cars gross weight. The trailers gross weight. The cars gross train weight. The cars towing nose weight. 1. Gross Weight. My Jaguar XF has a curb weight of 1820kg and a gross weight of 2285kg. 2285-1820 = 465kg for driver, passsengers, full tank of fuel and cargo. 2. Gross Train/Combined Weight. The XF doesn't list a Gross Train Weight, but does list a towing capacity of 1850kg (a lot less for an unbraked trailer). Together with the cars gross weight gives a gross train weight of 4135kg. 3. Trailer Gross Weight. A Brian James A-Max 120-2200 has a weight of 530kg and a maximum loaded capacity of 2000kg. 2000-530= 1470kg carrying capacity (or with the XF towing capacity 1850-530= 1320kg). 4. Nose weight. The XF towbar has a nose weight of 75kg, so the weight on the trailer (legally) has to be balanced to put no more than 75kg load onto the tow bar. At a quick glance, a 330d looks to have a towing capacity of 1800 kg, similar to my XF despite being a smaller car. A 530d has capacity for 2000kg.
  3. scraggles

    Forum moderator suggestions

    I'm happy to help
  4. scraggles

    Requests, ideas & problems

    Maybe extend admin perms to some of the other older members? and/or captcha for sign-up? and/or enable approval for new accounts? or at least give a f**k for spambot accounts being active for a few days? Oh, and Happy Holiday season to every human person left on here
  5. scraggles

    OEM flywheel mounting surface thickness?

    I used R50 bolts before. RealOEM says they are M10x22 vs the R53 ones at M10x48
  6. scraggles

    ARP head studs. When and why?

    OEM bolts are single use stretch bolts, whilst the ARP are no stretch re-usable, so thats economic reason enough for me to run them. If you're exceeding factory cylinder pressures they're worth having, and in some extreme cases they're not even good enough and higher spec bolts like L11 are more appropriate.
  7. scraggles

    R53 Water pump solutions

    Sorry to say but there is no way that will turn the alternator when it is loaded powering the car / charging the battery. It takes a good few hp to power an alternator, Theres not enough coverage on the belt and you're not using the ribbed rubber side.
  8. scraggles

    scraggles' in-tank fuelling mod

    The purpose in doing it is to overcome the pressure limit of the stock system (due to the intank regulator) and allows a remote fuel regulator to achieve higher boost pressures.
  9. Since there is some interest, here is some more info on the mods I made to an intank pump to incorporate a return line from the fuel rail and adding an uprated pump whilst also maintaining the feed from the opposite side of the tank. A picture before mod, where you can see the blue venturi. It takes a feed from the intank regulator which limits the pressure leaving the filter to the fuel rail. Excess pressure is sent out of the bypass, into the venturi which sucks fuel from that side of the tank and sends it along the fat grey hose into the top of the swirl pot surrounding the pump on the other side of the tank. After the mods, There is a new fitting in the top of the pump side for a return line from the fuel rail, this is now used to feeds the venturi. The old venturi feed on the regulator is blocked off by a short bit of submersible hose and a plug. Important to note that I used a Deatsch Werks fuel in-tank pump which maintains all the correct sealing and pickup points. Pump includes new seals.. ..which fit into the the swirl pot.. ..Unlike any of the walbro types with the foam sock thing and generic end shapes.. The 265 LPH Deatsch Werks pump was introduced by Greene Performance a few years ago. It's actually a Volkswagen part and is readily available over here, just be sure to use the FWD version and not the AWD version which has two outlets. I'd recommend getting it from Colin at Greene Performance, he really is a helpful fellow. There is also a much cheaper version on eBay, marketed in the UK by APS as the 65v. I haven't tried it as only the DW provides current vs flow data and the eBay one looks to be of different manufacture, but can't argue with the price at nearly 1/3 of the DW one.
  10. scraggles

    Mini34 (2.0)

    I've posted a bunch more info here.. http://www.trackmini.com/index.php/topic/2840-scraggles-in-tank-fuelling-mod/
  11. scraggles

    Cheque book Racing R53 build

    I use Millers CRX in mine, but the CRX LS version with friction modifiers for a plate diff.
  12. scraggles

    R53 performance parts

    Interested in the oil take-off if you've still got it Tom?
  13. scraggles

    K20 swap into a R53

    Hey Jorge, no problem, always happy to share especially with someone who gives so freely My Mini has barely been off axle stands this last couple of years - Life has had other priorities. Soon though and probably before brownpants ever gets his back out into daylight It's no turbo though, pure supercharger goodness here.
  14. scraggles

    Reborn, rehone, leave it alone?

    My guess is the burrs are just wear. There doesn't appear to be much hone one some of those bores to retain oil and lubricate the rings. Then your rings aren't meeting when expanded and enough oil getting past into combustion to give smoke.
  15. scraggles

    K20 swap into a R53

    I checked my spreadsheet.... CAM= pin1 Red/Green 12V pin2 Black/Violet SYNC to ECU pin3 Brown/Violet 0V REF CRANK= Pin1 Brown/Grey 0V REF Pin2 Black/Grey SYNC to ECU Pin3 Red/Blue 12V They are pretty standard Hall effect proximity sensors like most engine systems, though they use 12V supply. You'll need to check whether the Honda sensors use a 12V or 5V source. If 5V, you can get that off the expansion connector on the Link. Knock sensors are standard 2 wire Bosch piezo sensors so you can substitute another easily enough. Vtec solenoid you can feed off the spare AUX out on the expansion connector. Exhaust solenoid will need another AUX, you could re-purpose one such as the AC Clutch or the Evap can solenoid, or re-purpose one of the Ignition outputs used for the narrowband heaters. Similar with output to an idle control valve. Using the Link plugin is ideal IMHO, you don't need to get into Canbus signals so the dash and ABS will work, you can recalibrate temp + pressure sensors and have outputs to re-assign as you need.
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